Also check the spark plug wire condition. The energy to create the spark comes not from the magnet, but from the mechanical energy required to drive the magneto. Here is what I've checked: - The spark plug is new - The magneto gap was set to 0.008, 0.012 and 0.business card without any difference (Presently it set to 0.business card.) Coil and HV wire resistance/continuity test for one-cylinder engines The next test checks for a continu-ous path for the spark through the My magneto generated a very weak spark, so I replaced the coil and condenser. If you are in bright sun, you may have to shade the plug to see the spark. Disconnect the main electrical connector coming out of the engine, and then check for spark again. Magneto tips. for a spark. The inside looked very clean. Engine turns over, but the mag put out a very weak spark. 3. If I place a spark plug wire directly in the coil cover, I get a visible but very weak spark. Confidence in the permanency of permanent magnets is substantiated by evidence of the many applications they have been put to over the years. If the readings check out on your magneto, test your CDI. Run the voltmeter at the same 20k setting. This can be indicative of either a weak magneto or deteriorated plug wires. I done a lot of reading on weak spark threads here which helped me understand the magnetos a good bit enough to sort of test and look for grounds and contacts in my WICO model X, spec XH1295C magneto. A plug may throw a strong spark when held against the side of a cylinder for testing, but when installed in the cylinder and subjected to an additional 75 lbs. If you have hold of the plug wire when it snaps, you will feel the full effect! I can’t say that there has been any improvement in the spark generated. If your reading is far off from this, then the magneto is to blame for weak/no spark. The magnet merely acts to convert this mechanical energy to electrical energy. I dragged it out to restore it. I had another clone lawn mower engine, swapped coils, voila, started right up. This unhooks the kill switch, ignition switch and wiring for those switches. i have weak spark i did an oms test on the stator and it was ok also i pulled the flywheel off with a three arm puller and i think i bent it in a little ... Use ohmeter to test the parts of the magneto and the coils. of pressure it may not. It can also be caused by a spark plug's insulation breaking down. The voltage generated in the primary winding is a product of its velocity through the magnetic field and the strength of that field, so the condition of the magnet is vital for the correct performance of the magneto. Plug lead should throw a 3/16-inch spark. If this test shows no spark or a weak spark, troubles with the breaker points or coil inside the magneto are likely. However, I get no spark at the magneto … That should tell u the problem. If you are having trouble with your ignition system we recommend that you first change your spark plugs and HT leads. blaster sold - im a traitor and am getting a car Check voltmeter across the following wires: From the inside of the spark plug boot to the Black wire of the CDI. But they are kind of hard to use . If the spark improves, the problem is within wiring from one of those switches or a switch itself is to blame. Another apparently common no spark problem on clone engines is corrosion developing where magneto coil bolts down. 2) CDI testing. First time I thought it was bad magneto coil. If spark is weak or missing, install new vibrator. Then I do get a spark, but to my eye, it looks weak. If the magneto has an impulse mechanism on it, the spark will be the same intensity no matter how slow you turn it. I have had this happen on my lawn mowers with clone engines couple times. If the malfunction persists, remove the magneto and check for improper internal timing or improperly timed distributor gears.
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